Beautiful Viñales

Beyond the unquestionable beauty of Viñales Valley and its many landscapes, this area located less than 100 miles west of Havana is betting on a future driven by small and medium-sized private sector companies within the socialist system. Its development will be an example of the bright future expected by its residents, and in the end, Cuba itself. 

Without having to exaggerate, this Pinar del Rio municipality has a special beauty that cannot be compared to anything else on the Island. And despite its mostly rural condition, it’s hard to find a horse on its streets. The total opposite, in fact. There are electric motorbikes and off-road bicycles that circulate, which have little to do with those heavy Chinese Forever bikes we became used to not long ago, a means of transport now slowly disappearing and found in the municipal museum where they are exhibited as a sign of difficult times past. 

The first thing one notices in this vibrant area are the colors of the houses, even their government buildings, police department headquarters and other agricultural office buildings. The housing, most having been constructed decades ago, is brightened by its cheerful palette of colors, and the good condition they’re in. Everywhere you see signs that advertise rooms for rent, or, at times, rental availability for the entire property. There are also newer structures under the same conditions and also available to rent.

I’m not sure if this expresses their sense of humor or what, but almost all advertise that they have beds, a bar, hot and cold water, in addition to the necessary air conditioning. Included is an occasional hieroglyph I’ve still not managed to decipher.

Here you’ll also find the finest place on earth for the cultivation of tobacco. And as you approach there are messengers on the lookout for visitors who steer them away from the cigar factories in Pinar or Havana, and lead them to side of the road dealers who can provide you with a fist-full of illegal cigars they’ll gladly deposit in your bag or backpack, and which they guarantee are from the best leaf available and rolled by a retired, but expert cigar maker. During my visit I approached a messenger on a bicycle, who usually works for the family restaurants in the area, and asked where I might acquire some of the highly touted cigars. He looked back at me and raised his eyebrows a la Groucho Marx. 

Viñales cries out for further improvement of its roads that lead you to its many tourist sites. They’re all in need, from that very road that starts from the city of Pinar del Río, to those neighborhoods that lead to the caves, the Prehistoric Mural, or other places of interest. El Mirador, or the Lookout Point, offered little to boast about, I thought.

The nights in such a small region are usually much fun. From some corner you might hear a guitar playing, and then the sound of maracas suddenly appear during this or that festival. It is enough to report that an Argentine admitted to me that he had a good time. That for me is proof enough of good nighttime entertainment.

So many people on earth can’t be wrong when, without even knowing the Island, include picturesque Viñales in their travel plans. Many Cubans may not know the area or value its worth. But simply put, it is extremely beautiful. All you need to prove this is to set foot there and verify what a great gift Mother Nature has given us. But above all, it is its people and how welcoming they are as they continue to improve their standard of living.